If you’ve decided to level up your skin care routine, but suddenly feel like you need to have a science degree to understand all the AHA/BHA, HAs, retinols, vit-Cs and Ds mambo-jambo; let’s start with a crash course in ingredients you should not be mixing.
This is important to ensure you aren’t wasting money by using ingredients that will cancel each other out. Or, you know, to avoid burning your face off.
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One crucial thing to remember when structuring your skin routine: just because two ingredients have the same benefits, i.e. acne-fighting, doesn’t give them the green light to be mixed. Yes, they may be fighting the same fight, but they could also be speaking totally different skin languages.
Think of it like this: just because salmon and chicken katsu make great sushi roll fillings, doesn’t mean they should be used together.
And when it comes to complexion flavours, these are the combos that don’t marry well…
Retinol + AHA/BHAs
Retinol (vitamin A) stimulates cell turnover, which essentially means it is getting rid of dead, dull skin cells and replacing them with new ones.
This is a secret weapon for reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, acne and dark spots.
However, it can be irritating if overused or mixed with exfolating acids such as AHAs and BHAs. Therefore, the two should never be used within the one skin care regimen.
bh recommends: Alpha-A Vitamin A 0.5% as a retinol and Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Gel Exfoliant as an exfoliating acid.
Salicylic Acid + Glycolic Acid
These ingredients are favourites for removing dead skin cells, however, pairing them together will not give you a double dose of effectiveness.
Salicylic is best used when treating acne-prone or oily skin, whereas glycolic is more suited to mature skin, targeting fine lines and wrinkles.
bh recommends: Ultraceuticals Ultra Gentle Exfoliating Gel for salicylic and Dr.LeWinn’s Reversaderm Glycolic Cleanser for glycolic.
Vitamin C + Retinol
Both of these ingredients are heroes in their own rights, with vitamin C primarily for brightening and retinol an anti-ageing powerhouse. However, using them at the same time can overstimulate the skin.
You can still use them in the same day, just at opposite ends and never together.
Vitamin A is best used at night, while vitamin C is perfect in your morning routine under SPF.
bh recommends: Clinique Fresh Pressed Daily Booster With Pure Vitamin C 10% and Ultraderm Rapid Retinol Concentrate
AHA/BHAs + Vitamin C
If you love throwing money to the wind, mix these products.
Vitamin C and AHA/BHAs offer amazing antioxidant benefits, however, combining them can throw off the pH balance of your skin which will essentially render them both completely useless.
If you insist on having both in your cabinet, use separately.
Oil-based + Water-based
Water and oil don’t mix.
Using an oil-based product before a water-based formula is going to stop the water from absorbing into your skin.
If you are applying your face oil first, you may as well just be covering your face in a shield before you get to the water-based serum. Vice-versa it’s a-ok, which is why most just abide by the rule of oils last, always.
bh recommends: Sukin Rosehip Certified Organic Oil and Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel
Niacinamide + Vitamin C
For anyone with sensitive skin, be careful of mixing these two together as, again, it can overstimulate the skin and trigger breakouts.
However, used separately, they are both amazing ingredients for conjested or blemish-prone complexions. We’d suggest niacinamide for those with troubled skin, and vitamin C for those who only have the odd pimple every now and then.
bh recommends: Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster and La-Roche Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum
Vitamin C & Benzoyl Peroxide
If you’ve been using these two ingredients together, to put it simply, you’re flogging a dead horse. Benzoyl peroxide causes vitamin C to oxidise and you’ll end up exactly where you started.
Retinol & Salicylic Acid
When it comes to fighting acne, both of these ingredients are going to make a quick and visible impact.
However, resist the temptation of doubling down because when they are used together, the result will be red, dry and irritated skin, potentially worsening your pre-existing congestion.
To avoid the two superhero ingredients being too harsh for your skin, stick to using your retinol at night and your acids during the day.
bh recommends: SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 as a retinol and Paula’s Choice Clear Regular Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution with 2% Salicylic Acid as a salicylic acid
Soap-Based Cleanser & Vitamin C
According to dermatologist Leslie Baumann, when it comes to your skin’s ability to absorb vitamin C, the cleanser you are using pre-application is making an impact.
As vitamin C is more effective when formulated with a low pH, when you are using a soap-based cleanser (which contains a high pH) you are limiting your skin from drinking up all the goodness.
So in order to get a better bang for your buck (because let’s face it these serums ain’t cheap), enlist a salicylic or glycolic-based cleanser in the morning before you apply your vitamin C.
Two different products with the same actives
Aside from the fact that there’s simply no real need to double up on the same active ingredient, you might also be tempting fate when it comes to disrupting your skin barrier.
An example of one such risky double up that you may not realise you’re making is applying a salicylic acid face mask and then finishing with a BHA-containing serum. Stick to one, your skin will thank you for it.
Such a good article. I am loving skincare but do find it so overwhelming to know what you need.
Awesome article! It's so important to develop a good skin care routine and it can be tricky to navigate
I have not had any issues mixing skincare ingredients thankfully. I have gained insight and some great knowledge today, thanks BH.
Thanks for this info. As a sensitive skin person, it is very important I get this right.
There are products out there with both aha and bha in it. When formulated correctly, the two ingredients can be combined together. I've had success with it. Agree with the rest.
Great article. I don’t mix my lotions and potions. I’ve always considered them to be complete in the bottle. I do sometimes layer them though. If I have any doubt, I ask Google or Beautyheaven.
Excellent article! Love knowing stuff like this. I have pretty tough skin so I haven't noticed any problems but now I know that if I do I can refer to this article! : )
Good to know!
Thank You for your Skincare Advice regarding not mixing to many Serums and Creams together will be more careful from now on.
Love acids with retinol. And BHA and AHA together. And find watery serum under the oil for better spreadability and absorption goes splendid together. B3 with VitC also was great for me. VitC with AHAs ok too for me. As long as ascorbic acid is not too strong. Man, my skin can take it all.
This is a very informative article. All this is good to know particularly when you have sensitive skin.
Informative article! I do actually use both AHAs and Retinol at night, but I leave at least 20 minutes between applications. I also need to add that I don't have sensitive skin, so that is probably why it works for me
This is an article I will be always coming back to, very important
That's interesting because one of the products I wanted to buy had glycolic acid and other AHA's along with salicylic acid
I suppose if you just used the one brand you would never have this problem
Interesting article with helpful information.
Oh this article is awesome. I had no idea about half of this. I am book marking this article for sure.
This is a Fantastic article. I think is why I got an irritation on my neck which almost looked like a chemical burn.
Also, I have been putting facial oil on first and then cream. Looks like I got that wrong.
Interesting! I'm so prone to going over the too to try for results!
I love this informative skincare article and I'll be watching what I mix and when.
What a simple and easy to understand breakdown! Thanks!
I have bookmarked this article. I'm another that uses oil before cream wrongly. But it's logical when you think about it. Thanks
I've saved this too. I am so clueless on what my skin needs and also not keen on spending hundreds of dollars either
Definitely water based before oil!! Thanks for the article, as it breaks down the reasons why in simple and easy to understand terms.
Good to know all this, I don’t think I do any of them but probably more by luck than anything else.
Fantastic article. Learnt so much that I didn't know at all beforehand and have been doing to be honest. Most of these I don't have in my cabinet anyway but others I do and have been using wrong so great heads up thank you
Really important to know this – thank you!
This is very informative for me. I need to learn more about the ingredients and what they do.
A good article which is very informative.
I agree with most of these except for AHA/BHA + Vit C. Article says that it can 'throw off the pH balance of your skin', but pH is only relevant when products are water-based, and there are many Vit C products that are not water based.
I have had no issues combining BHA + Vit C.
Thanks for all the intel Ruby, definitely saving this as a favourite.
This is just what I need to understand what works and what doesn't work. This is definitely a saved article.
I wonder how it would go, if using these ingredients on alternate days?
simple and easy to understand! great artical
This is really a great article, especially since so many people are getting into the "actives" trend.
Fantastic article and very informative. Definitely saving this so I remember what to mix together.
good article , more info on this would be great
Good to know. Thank you.
Interesting article, thanks
Thank you 🙂
Thanks for the article! I didn't know I couldn't mix Vitamin C + Retinol.
I mix most of them all without any issues, but I have oily skin which can take a lot. Apart from mixing oils with water based, which ends up with the water based ones rubbing off. Sometimes I'll use the BHAs on my nose and chin, where I'm prone to breakouts, and Vitamin C/retinol everywhere else. I love Paula's Choice and they say you can mix most of their products
I would like to know that too
Very useful article
This has some good information, e.g. oil and then a water product – no no. I just have to try to remember all that I have read. Thanks
Great article and super helpful as I am always wondering what can/cannot mix.
Good to know
Good to know…
I don't use many brands at once.
Very interesting, i have never taken much notice of what I may or may not be mixing together.