You may recognise her name from the minimalistic white packaging sitting on the shelves of MECCA. But Dr Barbara Sturm is more than just the brand of a luxe anti-ageing skin care label. She’s also the celebrity esthetician behind the well-known flawless faces of Cher, Angela Bassett and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.
In addition to her loyal celebrity following, she’s the mastermind behind the infamous “vampire facial”, a process that involves using a patient’s own blood to stimulate the skin’s healing process.
RELATED: These are the best salicylic acid cleansers
RELATED: The unexpected cleansing habit that’s sabotaging your skin
But don’t let this fool you, body fluids and boundary-pushing anti-ageing developments aside, Barbara plays it pretty safe. So safe in fact, there’s still one ultra-popular, off-the-shelf ingredient the sought-after facialist won’t mess with, and if you’re like us, it’s probably sitting in your bathroom cabinet.
Image credit: @drbarbarasturm
Retinol. The topical derivative of vitamin A heads the list of most dermatologists’ and facialists’ must-have lists. And why wouldn’t it? The potent ingredient is scientifically proven to boost cell renewal andpromote anti-ageing through an increase in collagen production, plus effectively fight acne-causing bacteria. However, the cell-renewing powerhouse totally undermines Barbara’s entire philosophy on caring for our skin. Speaking to Refinery29, she explained, “I’m all about making your cells super healthy, super strong. Keep the cells from dying. Keep the cells performing. Keep the quality of cells super high.”
And the exact reason retinol doesn’t complement this approach? “Harsh acids loosen the bonds between healthy and dead skin cells, so essentially they strip healthy layers of skin as well,” she cautioned, speaking to Byrdie. “Skin is an organ, and removing too much impairs your barrier function, and can lead to increased sun damage and hyper-pigmentation, which is ironic because most people use acids to try and remove it.”
So while her practices seem like something cooked up in a mad science lab, her philosophies are far from unconventional: “My whole background is anti-inflammation, and retinol and retinoids cause inflammation.” Believing that being gentle on our skin is just as effective as deliberately inducing a ‘recovery response’ Barbara noted, “I don’t believe in attacking the skin and forcing healing and repairing every time, and I don’t think retinol should be in skin care products you can buy in stores. My approach is respecting the skin as our largest organ with so many necessary functions, including our immune system, and staying away from aggressive ingredients.”
Still not convinced? We suggest you take one look at the fountain of youth that is 75-year-old Cher.
Main image credit: Getty
What are your thoughts on retinol? Do you use one in your skin care routine?
She makes a lot of sense, so yes, I’m convinced.
I like the sounds of her theory. Sounds really gentle but the blood thing turned my stomach! Bleh no thanks. (or maybe I’m hungry and just need lunch!)
Oh ya! Retinol is a must and acids too. For my skin. Only things made a difference on better obviously. Barbara , maybe she can explain more scientifically her hypothesis. And why her products containing same ingredients (for example) the ordinary HA serum as her HA serum, when TO is about 10 bucks and hers….456 bucks for 30mL?! errr, c’mon
Sorry I don’t think Cher can be used as an example. Whist she is very beautiful her wrinkle free appearance is probably more due to Dr Plastic Surgery.
Blood I have to think about this one.
I will still be using my retinol until it’s finished. After that I’m not sure if I’ll buy it again. I’ll have to think about this.
Yes sister! Finally some common sense (and science)! Never been a fan of retinol. My sensitive skin HATES it. Most overrated and over used skin care ingredient ever. Very inflamantory to your cutaneous cells. Having said that her products are very over priced and I know many people who love retinol ( I’m speaking to ya Yoh!)
I will take a look in my cupboard for Retinol. I am not going to chuck it. I am just curious.
I haven’t tried retinol and maybe I shouldn’t.
haha. =D xx
Ya, retinol does make skin dry in so many people!
Love her!
Barbara Sturm has strong views of not using Retinol I have found some Skincare products, that have strong amounts of Retinol in them that I couldn’t use them continually on my face.
At the moment I am using Serums that have Collegen in them the Moisturiser that I use has Niacinamide, Glycerin and Amino-peptides.
Barbara Sturm makes me more aware of what we are putting on our Face and Body.
Interesting article.
It’s well known it can cause sun damage and hyper-pigmentation , that’s why you use sunscreen.
I read an article quite some time ago so I can’t remember which aesthetician was the subject of the article, but she had a retinol philosophy that really resonated with me. Similar to Dr. Sturm, she was all about skin health and wasn’t thrilled about retinol but recognised its benefit so she’d do a couple of retinol cycles, like three months on, three months off or something like that. This makes sense to me and I think it’s a happy middle ground.
Oh, and I should add that Cher, yes she is beautiful, but most of her beauty comes from Dr Knife rather than retinol.
I do use retinol but only very occasionally and in very small amounts. It’s usually in the form of something I’ve won or received a sample of.
Exactly. Not a good example at all, she’s had so much work done.
yes well if you get a true close up of Cher now you will see that she no longer really looks like herself and has that caricature look going on that happens when someone has over done the plastic surgery. To me thats like saying “look at my 7 year old daughter, she uses it and doesnt have a single wrinkle”
My skin is very tough due to thyroid disease – I use retinol without sensitivity. I wear sunscreen year-round. Retinol appears to make a positive difference to my skin, so I’ll continue using it.
I use a prescription retinoic acid on my face that my dermatologist recommended for me. It is quite mild but using it everyday does cause irritation to my skin so I can see her point.
She does make sense but I would still use it because it helps with my breakouts
wont give up or live without my retinol…sorry.. i get it and she makes good points as well as has good skin but evidence still directs to retinol. my skin hasnt aged since using for the past 5-6 years so ill see in 10 years.
A lot of the retinol formulations coming out in the market aren’t inflammatory.
I’ve just started using a Retinol product.
Found it dried my skin in places initially so I dialled it back.
I use it ocassionally and always remember my sun lotion.
Not been using it long enough to say if its made a major difference but prefer my hyaluronic acid serum love how that makes my skin look and feel.
Not sure I will continue with the Retinol though not just because of this article but kind of made my decision anyway will finish up the bottle.
The advice always changes so I stick with everything in moderation. I also forget to use products so this also helps! 🙂
I use it on and off and I like it.
Agreed. It didn’t work out so good for Joan Rivers.
That sounds like a good comparison Mandy17. I’ll give this a go myself.
Retinol is not on my routine, but wasn’t it recommended just last week on here?
Hi Cityglenda,
Highly recommend Hyaluronic- I use Loreal Paris Revitalift Filler Hyaluronic Acid Anti Wrinkle Serum 30ml give it a try.
Let me know how you go
I use a retinol alternative (bakuchiol) since I have sensitive skin, but I haven’t used it in weeks as I haven’t got another serum to buffer it with. (If I use the product on its own, my poor skin gets all red, so I need to play it safe.) I’d only been using it once a week or once every 2 weeks & have seen some benefits each time, but I know it’s not a product I can use daily. I understand Barbara’s points, but to each their own I reckon. (Plus her skincare is priiiiiiiiiiiicey!)
Find retinol a bit harsh for my skin.
I use retinol in Olay’s Regenerist Retinol24 but currently switched to Sukin Purely Ageless Pro Intensive Revitalising Overnight Mask which I chose from the Beautorium. The latter has Bakuchiol; a natural alternative to Retinol.
I agree with you Meedee. Just looked at Cher’s images on Google. Most obvious is her bottom lip. Could be she uses botox ?
I think you could be right Arty. She 100% has the look of “Ive had too much surgery”
I’ve never used Retinol. I have rather sensitive skin and I’m not sure my skin would tolerate it.
Ah yes Mandy17. I do that this product. I started with their eyecream. I just need to try Retinol again.
Good to look at articles relating to retinol before you try so you can make a educated decision – good article
It’s so confusing – with so many different opinions and philosophies!
Yes! Some people rave about retinol and others dont. Have to find what works for my skin.
> “Harsh acids loosen the bonds between healthy and dead skin cells, so essentially they strip healthy layers of skin as well,”
…but retinol is not an exfoliating acid!
“My whole background is anti-inflammation, and retinol and retinoids cause inflammation.”
Errr, retinol and retinoids don’t cause inflammation. It increases the rate of cell turnoever. If not introduced slowly, some strong forms can cause irritation but that is user error, not a fault of the ingredient itself. Some retinol derivatives like granactive retinoid are gentle and has almost no irritation.
Sorry, can’t agree with what’s being said.
I use Retinol every day and have never had a reaction, and I won’t be giving it up.
I thought those sentences ‘Still not convinced? We suggest you take one look at the fountain of youth that is 75-year-old Cher. ‘ were most odd. From what I’ve read, Cher has had loads of plastic surgery done and has regular botox. The poor woman can hardly smile her face is so tight.
At the moment I’m using one with bakuchiol, an alternative to retinol, with no bad effects
l have to agree with you l have been using retinol for a while now and my skin looks great and no irritation at all. lt has worked wonders for my skin.
Exactly onlyoni. Not a good example at all.
I use RetinAL serum and love it doesn’t dry out my skin only use it twice a week and add it to my nighttime routine.
You mustn’t use it for daytime use as it will attract the sun to your skin.
Thanks for the advice Dr. Sturm
Interesting article, thank you.