Brow trends will come and go. But the most flattering shape for your face? That’s forever. You might prefer your eyebrows to be fluffy, bleached, dark or thin. Whatever the style, size or colour – you’ll want to start off by nailing the shape. Once you’ve found the ideal shape that suits your face shape, it will balance your features, make your eyes pop and help you look polished without a scrap of makeup on. Though any good brow technician will be able to assist you with this, if you’re lucky enough to have fast-growing eyebrows that don’t stay in place for long, it might be worth reading up on how to do this yourself.
How to measure your eyebrows
Brow artist, Lien Davies, has detailed her foolproof technique for measuring your eyebrows. The Brow Quad Ratio, which Lien details in her eBook, Ultimate Brow Shape, follows a step-by-step measuring and shaping system to determine your face shape and enhance your features. To begin? You need to firstly identify where your eyebrows should start, arch and end.
Step one: Find your starting point
Position a ruler so that it sits vertically up from the centre, or close to the centre, of your nostril and intersects with your top brow line. Once you’ve found this spot, mark it with a vertical line that matches your natural brow thickness and height. Eyebrows look best when they begin with a right angle.
Note: if starting at the centre of the nostril is too unrealistic for you, then move your start point to the outer edge of the inner nostril instead.
Step two: Find your arch
Position the ruler so that it sits vertically at, or close to, the outer edge of your iris. Where it crosses your top brow line is where your arch (the peak) should be. When in the correct position, your brow arch can instantly give the illusion of a brow lift. However, if your brows naturally arch either side of this ideal spot, don’t panic. You can easily re-establish your arch point with the help of the right brow product.
Step three: Find the end
Angle the ruler from the edge of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye. Where the ruler meets your brow is where your brow should end. This point is crucial because it stops your brows from being over-extended, which inadvertently makes you look sad or tired. However, if ending the brow at this point sacrifices your overall brow length, you may need to readjust your start point. To do this, marginally extend it by a few millimetres towards the centre of your nostril.
Important sidenote: there are some exceptions to the rules (and myths!) when it comes to locating your start, arch and end, but Lien covers these in full in her eBook.
Why it’s important to measure your brows
Measuring and outlining the shape of how your brows should look prior to any hair removal will ensure you’re left with your ideal shape each and every time. And the Brow Quad Ratio lets you personalise your shape without any guesswork.
The result of your measurements will resemble an irregular quadrangle, which can be repeated over time to ensure your brows are equal in shape, height, thickness and length. Oh, and applying the markings and measurements on your ‘better’ brow is a wise idea, because you will then need to replicate your measurement on your other brow to ensure they look similar. (Hint: your ‘better’ brow is likely to be the one on the opposite side to the hand you write with, as you’re less likely to have overplucked it.)
How to measure your brows using the Brow Quad Ratio
This is what will give you the measurements for your ultimate brow shape. When measuring these points, use your ruler in reverse – it’ll make reading your measurements in the mirror a whole lot easier.
An example of a Brow Quad Ratio would be: brow length = 4.6cm; arch length = 3cm; tail length = 2cm; thickness = 0.8cm.
eBook illustrations by Emma Tamaoki
*This article has been updated since its original publication date
Main image credit: @bambilegit
Are you interested in finding out the ultimate brow shape for your face? Will you try and find your Brow Quad Ratio? Or are you brows already perfectly shaped?
Brings back memories of when I first plucked my eyebrows
I’d love to get my brows done
me too
I am in need of a brow makeover my eyebrows are shockingly scary rn
I too need to shappen my brows so I will be doing some tweezing soon.
Thankfully my mum was always on my case about not over plucking my eye brows, incredibly grateful for that!
Great tips on styling my awful brows Thank you so much.
What a great read! Full of useful information
I agree Elliekay
Right now, I’ve let my brows go since covid, letting them be natural.
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My brows have always been thin, I only have to pluck a stray hair every now and then. Tinting them has made a big difference.
I over plucked mine as a teen. Worst thing I ever did!
My brows have thinned out due to thyroid issues, so I just pluck out the odd strays and leave them be
Very useful info, thanks! So glad I never overplucked mine when that was a trend
So much mathematics behind eyebrow shaping
I just let my brow lady do her thing and I’m always happy with the results. Also tinting has really made a difference for mine.
I have let my brows as they are
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I love the geometry of this method because it would work for every face.
My brows have thinned at the ends due to thyroid disease, so there’s nothing I can do about that.
yes I like the idea -You could perhaps get tattoo done at end of brows ?
Interesting, those are good tips.
It is the one we are born with. Me thinks.
Great article and I wish I could save it
I like my eyebrows and I was lucky that I never over plucked mine (thanks mum!)
Too hard. I’m glad I never over plucked my eyebrows in the 90’s.
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Great article, very informative.
If I don’t dye or pencil my eyebrows you can barely see them which is really frustrating considering I naturally have dark hair 😛
I tend to leave brow shaping to the professionals.
Such a handy article.
I never did anything with my brows when I was younger and am lucky now. My brows are quite full. I find narrow brows ageing.
Yesssssss 👏🏼🙌🏼 my favourite thing to shape and wax is brows .
good idea for an article