The fragrance families

First published: July 2007

The fragrance families as defined by Michael Edwards, author and publisher of Fragrances of the World:

Citrus: Fragrances derived from the oils of citrus fruits like lemon, mandarin, orange and grapefruit, with a tangy, refreshing character. Fragrances include Calvin Klein cK One, Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden, Miller Harris Citron and Carthusia Mediterraneo.

Green: Capturing the sharp, fresh scent of grass, verdant fields and violet leaves. While some have a casual, outdoorsy character, others can be more formal. Fragrances include: Marc Jacobs Splash Grass, Firefly by Demeter Fragrance Library, Eau de Lierre by Diptyque and Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamate.

Water: A relatively new type of scent that emerged in he 1990s, these conjure sea breezes and rainstorms, the beach and freshwater lakes. Fragrances include: Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey, Calvin Klein Escape and Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman.

Floral: From heady bouquets to the delicate scent of a single flower, these fragrances are some of the most loved and widely worn. The rise of aroma chemicals has allowed perfumers to recreate the scent of flowers from which oils could not be traditionally extracted. Fragrances include: Marc Jacobs Perfume, Freesia by Crabtree & Evelyn, Stella McCartney Stella and Sheer Stella, Very Irresistible Givenchy and Tubereuse by L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Soft floral: With the addition of aldehydes, Edwards notes floral scents take on a more powdery, abstract persona. Fragrances include: Chanel No. 5, Avon Crystal Aura, Anna Sui, Jette by Jette Joop, Alien by Thierry Mugler, Vera Wang, Estee Lauder White Linen and Noa by Cacharel.

Floral oriental: Spices, notes of orange flower and aldehydes give florals an oriental flavour. Fragrances include: Yves Saint Laurent Cinema, 5th Avenue After Five by Elizabeth Arden, Chanel Allure, Burberry for Women, Sexual by Michel Germain, Kenzo Flowerbykenzo, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique, Tresor by Lancome, Emporio Armani She and Nadira by Crabtree & Evelyn.

Soft oriental: Flowers muddled with spices, amber and incense create the soft oriental scent. They are less sweet and heavy than a true oriental. Fragrances include: Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens and Orange Spice by Creed.

Oriental: From the most exotic of all the families, these fragrances are sensual, opulent and full-bodied with a seductive heaviness. Fragrances include: Calvin Klein Obsession, Belle en Rykiel by Sonia Rykiel, In Control Curious Britney Spears, Shalimar by Guerlain, L de Lolita Lempicka and Moschino.   

Woody oriental: Lace an oriental with woody sandalwood or patchouli and you get these deep, sexy characters. Fragrances include: Angel by Thierry Mugler, Calvin Klein Obsession Night, Amber by Renee, Dolce & Gabbana By Woman, Lancome Hypnose and Prada.

Woods: Classic woods include dominant notes of cedar, patchouli, pine, sandalwood and vetiver. Fragrances include: Gucci Rush 2, Kors by Michael Kors, Vetyver by Jo Malone, Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules and Patchouli by L’Occitane.

Mossy woods: Also known as chypre by perfumers, this family takes its name from the foresty notes of oakmoss and amber mixed with citrus. Fragrances include: Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely, Narciso Rodriguez For Her, Darling by Kylie Minogue, Miss Dior by Christian Dior and Gucci Rush.

Dry woods: The mossy wood family moves into drier territory with the inclusion of cedar, tobacco and burnt wood. Also characterised as leather as this family includes the smoky scent of Russian leather. Fragrances include: Aromatics Elixir by Clinique, Sarawak by Crabtree & Evelyn, Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren Polo and Vetiver by Lorenzo Villoresi.

Aromatic (fougere): Known as the “universal fragrance family”, this set blends citrus and lavender, sweet spices and oriental woods. Many male-oriented fragrances come from this family, but blends of fresh florals, orientals and woody notes are pleasing to the feminine nose too. Fragrances include: Calvin Klein cK Be, Emporio Armani Remix for Him, Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, Cool Water by Davidoff, Hugo by Hugo Boss and Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger.